EventsEventsPodcasts
Loader

Find Us

ADVERTISEMENT

Saving San Siro: Legendary Milan football stadium avoids date with wrecking ball

Euronews journalist Alessio Dell'Anna standing in front of Milan's San Siro stadium
Euronews journalist Alessio Dell'Anna standing in front of Milan's San Siro stadium Copyright Euronews
Copyright Euronews
By Alessio Dell'Anna
Share this articleComments
Share this articleClose Button

An eyesore for some, a site of worship for others, Milan's legendary San Siro stadium has been saved from destruction after local Lombardy authorities recognised its 'cultural interest'. Inter fan Alessio Dell'Anna says the move reflects the stadium's significance in his life.

ADVERTISEMENT

Earlier this month, Milan's legendary Giuseppe Meazza stadium, aka the San Siro, was rescued from a destruction order. The Lombardy regional authority's cultural heritage commission decided the historic stadium's second floor is worthy of protection.  

Built in 1925, one might think Italy has more than its fair share of architectural wonders so that a football stadium shouldn't get a look in. But, that view would greatly ignore what, for me, is the world's best concrete cathedral erected in honour of the beautiful game.

My first experience at San Siro felt more like a tribal initiation than a fun, playful afternoon. 

I was five or six years old. I can't remember much of what happened on the pitch, or whether it was Inter or Milan playing, but I clearly recall the ominous and intimidating feeling produced by the noise.

For years, every time I stepped onto the stands with my dad - after hiking up San Siro's endless spiral stairs - I feared that sound was going to shoot my small body up into the air and wipe it away.

AFP
Inter and AC Milan lineups before the UEFA Champions League semi-final first leg on May 10, 2023 at the San Siro stadium of MilanAFP

The chants, the screams and the bangs of those 80,000 people were rumbling and savage. Nothing that I could have been prepared for.

In the mid-90s, Milan was still very much a grey and filthy city. Cigarette smoke hung heavy in bars, rubbish was strewn across the streets, and heroin syringes were scattered around playgrounds. 

The stadium surroundings were no exception. And yet within that air, dense with smells of beer and pork sausages, and inside those immense crowds, there was something liturgical and almost mystical. 

San Siro, like a mountain top, could be seen from kilometres away, and heading there felt somewhat like a pilgrimage. The run-ups to the games were rituals marked by prayers to the gods of football. My idol, at the time, was Ronaldo Luís Nazário de Lima.

Carlo Fumagalli/AP
Inter Milan's Brazilian ace Ronaldo scores during the Italian first division match against Atalanta at the Milan San Siro Stadium Saturday, March 14, 1998Carlo Fumagalli/AP

There were no turnstiles at the stadium. Every ticket, tens of thousands of them, was checked manually, in a general atmosphere of chaos. The most daring fans, especially during the Derbies, would try to sneak in for free or force their way through. 

I was too young and not fool-hardy enough for that, but, once I started going to San Siro alone, I couldn't help trying to take advantage too of that modern-day wild west.

One day I turned up with a friend at the gates. We had no tickets or money to buy them, and we candidly asked the steward to let us watch the second half of a game. It was in the mid-2000s, Inter had just signed Luís Figo, and when we got through I felt like I had won the lottery.

Alessio Dell'Anna/Euronews
Euronews reporter Alessio Dell'Anna and a friend at San Siro during the Champions League quarter finals against Benfica - Milan, Italy, 19/04/2023Alessio Dell'Anna/Euronews

San Siro memories and nightmares...

I'll never forget witnessing Inter's elimination in the 2000/2001 Champions League playoffs against a Swedish team which now play in the second division - Helsingborg IF - or, worst of all, being knocked out from the Champions League semifinals by AC Milan, in 2003. I think it was the last time I cried for a football game.

I had to wait two decades to see Inter's revenge with a humbling 3-0 over the Rossoneri. 

That was really special because not only did I have the chance to be at the stadium again for such a big occasion, alongside my father, but I was also covering the event for Euronews.

It was almost impossible to hide my feelings surrounded by dozens of rejoicing Inter fans. 

Alessio Dell'Anna
Euronews reporter Alessio Dell'Anna mobbed by Inter fans after Inter's 1-0 victory vs AC Milan - Milan, Italy, 16th March 2023Alessio Dell'Anna

Each to their own: One city, two stadiums

Today, San Siro's future remains unclear.

The building dates back to 1925. Although it underwent renovations and enlargements, the signs of times are evident and do not do justice to its glorious past.

ADVERTISEMENT

Demolishing it and building a brand new stadium - just like what happened to Wembley - was initially an option. However, the municipality of Milan halted the plan after Lombardy's Cultural Commission recognised its "intangible cultural heritage". 

More or less like what happens in Rome when you can't build a new metro station because they find an ancient Roman villa buried nearby.

MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP
Inter fans celebrate winning their 19th national title outside San Siro - Milan, Italy May 23, 2021MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP

Transforming architectural limits into art

Lombardy's authorities referred in particular to the design of the wraparound stairs, where the crowds remain visible as they climb up in circle through the structure, creating a dynamic-spiral effect that transforms the outer wall into a living organism.

Antonio Calanni/Copyright 2019 The AP.
The San Siro stadium in Milan, Italy was also chosen to host the opening ceremony of the 2006 Winter OlympicsAntonio Calanni/Copyright 2019 The AP.

They also highlighted the importance of the second floor, whose construction, in 1955, brought San Siro's capacity to 85,000. With its 132 "outstretched-arm-looking pillars", they said it's an example of "translating architectural limits into expressivity".

'Crazy' to get rid of San Siro, say football legends, fans and artists

The majority of Inter and Milan fans are for keeping the stadium. When the first demolition rumours began rumbling, many voiced their anger on websites and forums using the slogan "Get your hands off San Siro". 

ADVERTISEMENT

They got immediate support from legends like Gianni Rivera and Sandro Mazzola, who both, in the 1960s, turned Milan into the world football capital by bringing home a total of four European cups in just six years.

Like the Duomo or La Scala, San Siro is a symbol of Milan. If Inter and Milan want a new stadium, they can buy a private estate and build it there
Gianni Rivera
Ballon d'Or winner and AC Milan legend
San Siro belongs to the history of Milan. With a proper lifting, it can also be part of its future. I think Inter and Milan are focusing too much on business and not enough on the fans
Sandro Mazzola
European champion and Inter legend
AP
Sandro Mazzola, left, and Gianni Rivera, right, pictured before a Milan derby in the 1970sAP

World-renowned Italian music artist Laura Pausini also spoke against San Siro's plight. The campaign was also joined by international artists, such as Bruce Springsteen's E Street Band guitarist Steven Van Zandt.

"There are enough skyscrapers and malls in the world, but there is only one San Siro"
Steven Van Zandt
Guitarist and music artist

A cathedral in the desert

For the moment, San Siro will stay as it is. 

Nonetheless, it remains clear that its illustrious tenants - Inter and AC Milan - will sooner or later move out.

The Serie A rivals need a more modern venue, and, if they had to build their own, they'll do it away from San Siro.

ADVERTISEMENT
Alessio Dell'Anna/Euronews
San Siro is Milan's theatre of dreamsAlessio Dell'Anna/Euronews

I am not very sentimental, and I don't like the idea of such an iconic building turning into something like an ancient pyramid - empty, largely unused and surrounded by a desert. 

But those giant bustling towers spiralling up into the skyline are part of the city's history and a symbol of its vitality.

Wherever its replacements will be built, however fancy, slick or sophisticated they are, whatever comes next will have to go some way before they can replace the emotion of seeing San Siro, let alone the overwhelming sensation of being inside that mythical stadium. A true marvel of modern architecture.

Share this articleComments

You might also like