Suwalszczyzna – centred on the town of Suwałki and stretching towards the Lithuanian border – is one of Poland’s least explored regions. Free from large hotels and tourist crowds, it offers something rarer: lush green space, authentic interactions and tranquillity.
This land of lakes, hills and forests attracts those wishing to slow down, being mindful and open to local culture, to have their stresses melt away.
Here, mornings begin with birdsong drifting over misty valleys and evenings end with bonfires and the taste of freshly caught fish. In Suwalszczyzna, slow travel is not a trend, but a way of life.
Lakes like mirrors, hills like a fairy tale
Suwalszczyzna’s defining treasures are its landscapes, shaped by glaciers thousands of years ago. Lake Hańcza, plunging to 108.5 metres, is the deepest in Poland and Central Europe. Its crystal-clear waters reflect the forested hills surrounding, while, beneath the surface, divers explore submerged cliffs and post-glacial rock formations.
The Suwałki Landscape Park, the oldest park of its kind in Poland, offers a patchwork of moraine hills, ravines and misty river valleys. Visitors here can traverse marked trails past mysterious rock formations carried all the way from Scandinavia by ancient ice sheets. The Bachanowo Boulder Field contains more than 10,000 stones like this, while the giant rocks of Łopuchowo are even more astonishing at sunrise and sunset, when mist rolls through the valleys. Nature photography enthusiasts will find paradise here, spoilt for choice by the scenic panoramas.
Nearby Wigry National Park centres on Lake Wigry, one of Poland’s largest and cleanest bodies of water. A network of wooden piers and footpaths allows visitors to explore its reed beds and islands, home to beavers, otters and over 200 bird species. On the lake’s southern shore, the white baroque buildings of the former Camaldolese Monastery rise above the water – a striking reminder of the region’s religious heritage.
Beyond excellent conditions for swimming is peaceful, uncrowded waters, lovers of water sports can also find joy on Suwalszczyzna’s lakes, with kayaking, sailing and paddleboarding available at popular spots.
By water, by bike, on foot – the choice is yours
Suwalszczyzna offers plenty more activity for those looking to combine relaxation with outdoor exploration. The Czarna Hańcza River is at the meandering centre of it all, known as one of Poland’s most scenic waterways, winding through forests and villages on its way to Lithuania.
For an unforgettable experience, rent a kayak from local operators in towns such as Stary Folwark or Wigry to soak up the enchanting landscapes with a group or at your own leisure. After a day encountering kingfishers, herons, beavers and otters along the route, come to shore for the night, staying at one of many campsites dotted along the wild riverbanks.
For cyclists, the Green Velo trail – a 2,000-kilometre route spanning eastern Poland – cuts a fantastic path through the region. One popular stretch runs from Suwałki to Sejny, a small border town with a strong Lithuanian cultural presence and a 17th-century Dominican monastery turned museum. One section of the trail passes Lake Wigry – Poland’s tenth-largest lake – giving riders a satisfying forest-backed route around the 21 kilometre-squared expanse.
Hiking enthusiasts can follow the blue-marked trail across the Suwałki Landscape Park, passing viewpoints like Cisowa Góra, a perfectly conical hill offering panoramic views of the lakes and forests. In winter, the region turns into a hub for cross-country skiing and ice-fishing, drawing Polish families seeking outdoor escapes far from crowded ski resorts.
Local kitchen flavours
The flavours of Suwalszczyzna reflect both its natural environment and its cultural crossroads. The local cuisine is down-to-earth, yet hearty and full of character – just like its people. Kartacze – potato dumplings stuffed with minced meat – are a regional staple, often served with fried onions.
Sękacz, a tall spit cake cooked layer by layer over an open fire, is a festive treat commonly found at weddings and village fairs. Freshwater fish from Lake Wigry, wild mushrooms from Augustów Forest, artisanal cheeses and cold cuts also fill the regional table.
Many local agritourism farms offer hands-on experiences in the kitchen, offering everything from pierogi-making workshops to bread baking and fish smoking. At family-run guesthouses in villages such as Krzywe or Turtul, guests can cook alongside their hospitable hosts, turning meals into cultural exchanges as well as culinary ones.
Traditions and authenticity
What makes Suwalszczyzna stand out is its authenticity. Every wooden farmhouse and roadside shrine has a story, and every lakeside chapel reflects centuries of history.
Hospitable locals will gladly share tales of the past, and in folk villages such as Sejny and Puńsk – the capital of “Poland's Lithuania” – minority communities come together to sing, dance and tell stories in celebration of their distinct identity.
Religious processions are held on prominent dates in Orthodox and Catholic calendars, such as the Saint Jonas’ Festival (Joninės) in June and Feast of the Assumption in August.
An unexpected face of Poland
Despite being one of Poland’s least-known regions internationally, Suwalszczyzna offers landscapes and traditions among the country’s richest.
Whether kayaking the Czarna Hańcza, cycling the Green Velo, hiking past glacial boulders or tasting sękacz fresh from the fire, travellers can discover a grounded place where life is lived at nature’s pace.
It is this unexpected face of Poland – unspoilt, authentic and waiting to be discovered – that keeps guests returning time after time.
Suwalszczyzna is waiting – discover it before everyone else does.
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