Legendary Parisian waiter-race returns in time for Olympic Games

People dressed as waiters carry trays of drinks as they take part in a race through the streets of Paris.
People dressed as waiters carry trays of drinks as they take part in a race through the streets of Paris. Copyright Thibault Camus/AP2011
Copyright Thibault Camus/AP2011
By Estelle Nilsson-Julien
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Few things are more Parisian than a busy - and sometimes rude - waiter running around with a tray in hand. Be sure to step out of the way, as the infamous Parisian waiter race is returning to the capital in March, for the first time in 13 years.

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The Olympic Games may be coming to Paris in July - but on the 24 March it will be the city's restaurant staff who will race around the city. The infamous ‘course des cafés’ - which first began in 1914 - is returning to the capital after a 13-year hiatus.

200 waiters and waitresses will undertake a two-kilometre loop around the city's historic Marais area, while balancing a coffee, croissant and glass of water held on a silver tray. To be in a with a chance of winning, contestants have to complete the circuit in the fastest time possible.

Waiter Didier Hubert, center, indicates directions to a customer of the cafe "Au petit Fer a Cheval" (The small horseshoe), in the historical Marais district of Paris.
Waiter Didier Hubert, center, indicates directions to a customer of the cafe "Au petit Fer a Cheval" (The small horseshoe), in the historical Marais district of Paris.Thibault Camus/Copyright 2019 The AP. All rights reserved

As in every decent cafe, spillages have to be avoided and any running is an absolute rule-breaker. No running means certainly no running-attire, as participants must wear a traditional uniform composed of a white shirt, black trousers and an apron. 

For waiters and waitresses: "it's not a course des garcons"

"This year its a 'course des cafés', not a 'course des garçons'", Nicolas Bonnet, Deputy Mayor of Paris for trade, crafts, liberal professions and art and fashion professions tells Euronews Culture.

The race was put on pause back in 2011 due to a lack of sponsors. This time round, two of France's biggest hospitality union's, as well as the city's water provider are providing funding.

Heloise Brebion, poses inside her bar, minutes before 2020 pandemic restrictions forced her to close.
Heloise Brebion, poses inside her bar, minutes before 2020 pandemic restrictions forced her to close.Lewis Joly/Copyright 2020 The AP. All rights reserved

"We want to show the world what we do here in Paris," adds Bonnet.

In this latest edition there will be a prize category for waitresses, waiters, as well as a separate grouping for restaurant trainees.

50 cafes and restaurants will be awarded medals

The race will mark the culmination of a week-long programme of events which will celebrate Parisian cafe culture, as well as the French art of service. 

"Our goal is to shine the spotlight on the work of our restaurant and cafe workers. The sector was hard-hit by the Covid-19 pandemic and many employees continue to work in tough conditions, with very early starts for some and for others very late finishes," says Nicolas Bonnet.

People sit on the Cafe de Flore terrace in Paris, Tuesday, June 2, 2020.
People sit on the Cafe de Flore terrace in Paris, Tuesday, June 2, 2020.Christophe Ena/Copyright 2020 The AP. All rights reserved

50 restaurants and cafes across the city - selected by the Association of French Bistrots and Cafes - are set to receive medals for their hard work. 

The organisation has been campaigning for UNESCO to list France's cafe culture as 'intangible cultural heritage'. This classification refers to knowledge and skills which are held in a specific sector are that are transmitted from one generation to another.  

For many this is especially important in light of the declining number of cafes and restaurants across France. In 1960, France had an estimated 200,000 bistrots (small Parisian restaurants), whereas the city is estimated to have 40,000 today.

Waiters’ races abroad

Some 200 waiters participated in a 1600-meter waiter race in downtown Buenos Aires, 2004.
Some 200 waiters participated in a 1600-meter waiter race in downtown Buenos Aires, 2004.NATACHA PISARENKO/AP2004

Other cities in France - such as Limoges - have introduced waiter's races. But these events are not an exclusively French affair, as they have popped up accross a number of European cities including Brussels and London. 

Further afield, waiter races have been developping in Washington, Buenos Aires and Tokyo.

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