For some it is an unmissable international cultural tradition, for others it is a lot of fuss over cheap plonk.
But Beaujolais Nouveau continues to enjoy phenomenal marketing success each November.
The stroke of midnight on the third Thursday of the month gives the green light for bottles to be cracked open.
Customers in the Au Petit Chavignol restaurant in Paris were among the first to try the new vintage.
“Très fruité,” (very fruity) was the verdict of one diner. One prominent wine expert has said this year’s wine contains a whiff of blackberry, raspberry and cherry – describing it as “sturdy” despite fears it might have been damaged by a late harvest.
Many people across the globe will follow the Parisians and the French: last year saw events in 120 countries.
Japan started early because of the time difference. It is set to be the leading export market, as last year when it bought 8.8 million bottles.
In Britain sales have slumped in recent years, to the extent that some supermarkets no longer stock Beaujolais Nouveau at all – although higher quality wines from the Beaujolais region have enjoyed a revival.