Designer Monique Lhuillier showed no signs of straying from her comfort zone, with a spring collection at New York Fashion Week that oozed sophistication and class.
Canvassing a dizzying cluster of bright colours, one in particular stood out.
As the designer explained, after adopting ‘sheer class’ as the theme of her showpiece, it was only a matter of time before she turned to fuchsia: “I am working with a lot of sheer fabrics, so you can see different layering going on throughout the collection. And then comes the bright colours. There are these beautiful reds, corals, and of course, the fuchsias.”
The California-based designer kicked things off with a daytime look, full of lace and layers. Bold colours helped transition the collection from day to evening, with various asymmetrically-draped gowns and ball skirts.
Herve Leger’s signature bandage dress featured on their catwalk, but the label’s husband-and-wife design team, Max and Lubov Azria, also experimented with hemlines and zippers, and added swimsuits and separates to their customary array of skintight dresses.
For Lubov Azria, the brief was clear; the onus had to be on swimming costumes: “We wanted to bring sportswear right to the forefront. We were really thinking about sportswear and ways you might wear separates for Herve Leger.”
Herve Leger’s colour palette stayed strong and habitually neutral, with black, grey and white dominating the runway, albeit with some sporadic, ad-hoc splashes of maritime blue.
With spring in mind, the design duo gave extra attention to the waist, with structured corset belts, paired with geometric heeled pumps.
Set to a toe-tapping summer soundtrack of Robin Thicke and Daft Punk, Diane von Furstenberg’s new collection was sexy safari chic with a ’70s swagger.
As the grand old dame of New York explained, this collection was the perfect way for her public audiences to escape global horrors, and smile awhile: “This show is really a spring oasis, because what I tried to do is create an oasis of peace and harmony and colour, at a moment when the world is so scary and terrifying.”
Supermodel Naomi Campbell closed the show in a black, gold and white knit macrame sleeveless shift dress.
The New York Fashion Weeks runs until 12 September.