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Versace glitters, Dior renews, Van Herpen stuns

Versace glitters, Dior renews, Van Herpen stuns
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Versace held its Paris Fashion Week show with the usual high expectations surrounding the luxury brand, and it did not disappoint with its usual bravado display of flash and sex appeal.

“I’ve known Versace for years, Donatella, the first time I met her instinctively make me feel like I was one of her best girlfriends, she’s so sweet, so generous, and a really genuine, lovely, lovely person,” said actress Jessica Alba.

Alba was just one of the many stars out and about and mingling with this most jet-set of all the couturiers.

Versace said the show was built upon “the idea of deconstruction and reconstruction in all various forms”, and “inspired by cosmic imagery and decoration such as tarot cards, the sun, moon and world, reproduced on weightless fabrics with a glass effect”.

The fashion house added it had put all these images through the prism of artist Pablo Picasso, imagining how he would re-imagine them.

Say it loud I’m Dior and Proud

Say it with flowers was the clear message from new designer Raf Simons in his 1950s-tinged haute couture debut for Christian Dior.

When the normally exuberant house first hired the Belgian designer, known for his minimalist and linear style, it raised eyebrows.

But the show will win many over. He revitalized with panache the curved Dior ‘flower women’ silhouette.

It is what Christian Dior, the man, used to describe his revolutionary 1947 New Look of pinched waists and full skirts that resembled inverted flowers.

One thing is clear: Simons has done his homework. In the four months since being named creative director, he has delved deep into the house’s archives and has produced 54 diverse outfits, which he paraded through several sweet-scented salons, wall-to-wall in myriad multi-coloured flowers, signalling a clean break from the vivacity of his predecessor, John Galliano.

No material taboo for Van Herpen

Using a variety of materials including copper, Swarovski crystals, leather, silicone and a new, highly-technical method of 3D printing, Dutch designer Iris Van Herpen set out facing a set of challenges.

Her runway show was titled ‘Hybrid Holism’. The collection’s inspiration came from a Canadian architect, Philip Beesley, and an experimental chemist, Rachel Armstrong, who believe in the possibility of creating cities or systems that are reactive and partly alive.

The collection included a nude silicone dress like a sponge, a 21st-century kimono like something Batman might wear, and a sleeveless dress with a tentacle skirt in squid-ink black.

Van Herpen started her career by interning with Alexander McQueen, and it shows. Since launching her eponymous house in 2007, she has carved out a niche of her own in the rarefied club that is haute couture.