A sense of self-confidence and humorous irony dominated the catwalks of the Moscow Fashion Week today. Funnily enough, the same vibe came from three very different designers — Sensus Couture, Goga Nikabadze and Artem Shumov — whose shows stood out during this second day. Three ways of expressing a peculiar feeling of pride felt through bold and playful styling for both womenswear and menswear and theatrical staging.
First, we were introduced into Sensus Couture by a display of metallic body-painted human statues, sitting or lying down on the runway. The catwalk was covered with a texture similar to black garbage plastic bags sticked to the floor. The contrast between these religious figures in regal poses with halo above their heads, and the apparent neglect of the ground made the whole scene looked like if Greek gods and goddesses had been thrown out of the Olympus to fall on a dark sea like useless rubbish.
Sensus Couture by Nik Boginsky: unapologetic glamazons walking the aisle of a dystopian church
The show took place in this dystopian church decor, models walking fiercely to the sound of Madonna’s Like a prayer — of course. Overly sexy creatures wearing fishnet tights under very short glamorous dresses or lurex bodysuit, apparent suspender belts and very high heels kinda made it clear this is not fashioned to wear at the office.
This shiny marine blue vinyl mini sleeveless A-line dress (see in the video above) was a great addition to the collection and caught my eye. Another favourite was the oversized biker jacket on the black swimsuit with boots (another shot from the front row you can spot in the video): a curious outfit that worked all together. Sensus Couture knows how to create impactful looks loaded with drama and is not afraid to do so.
Goga Nikabadze: explores stillness and fluidity to the sound of traditional Caucasian music
Miles away is Georgian designer Goga Nikabadze from Batumi. His show was equally bold but for a different reason. The looks were displayed in real life slow motion - which is the dream scenario for us, the press, trying to capture stills from the front row. This is also a very unusual move in the world of runway shows where each look comes and goes at the blink of an eye, leaving journalists with a beautiful selection of blurred pictures of women in a hurry.
But not this time. The Nikabadze’s couple is serious, melancholic, almost austere, and exists to be contemplated. They walk in pairs, assembled by shades of colours from deep black to turquoise blue, off-white to orange. It’s coherent and visually appealing, and easy to grasp metaphorically and literally.
The women’s gowns float like capes and ripple in waves hiding most of her skin whilst men were wearing light corduroy pants. Beauty was particularly interesting with hair rolled up in a banana covered with black gauze and deep blue lipstick on all the girls.
Artem Shumov: the Russian menswear designer stealing the limelight
Artem Shumov closed the day with a show that was both highly creative and extremely wearable. Male models’ faces and hair were adorned with mesmerizing paintings showing strokes of primary colours, which made them look very urban and cool. This could well turn into a trend.
This designers’ passion for fashion started at the young age of 4 and never left him since then. Protege of award-winning American designer Thom Browne, he became in recent years one of the most sought-after menswear designers in Russia.
Now established in St. Petersburg, his eponymous label, which vestiaire emcompasses oversized, utilitarian silhouettes, polished tailoring with juxtaposition of traditional pinstripe suiting with sportswear details, and a neutral palette offset by bold primary colours, is also available in Moscow and Shanghai.
Q1. How did you become a designer?
“I decided to become a designer when I was 4. I fell in love with a girl in kindergarten and she had a Barbie doll. I sewed my first dress for this doll.”
Q2. Russian menswear is having a momentum. Being a prominent brand leading this trend, how do you explain it and how does it make you feel?
“It’s simply great. Menswear and street style fashion, in particular, are huge now. I love that guys in Eastern Europe are not afraid to express themselves through clothes anymore. People are open to almost anything.”
Q3. What is the DNA of your brand?
“Comfort. It’s both physical and emotional. Comfort is the main thing for me.”
Q4. What is the general spirit and highlight pieces of your A/W 18-19 collection?
“Jumpsuits are highlight pieces in every collection. Two-piece suites (matching shirt and trousers) are also standing out.”
Q5. What guy or girl inspires you in today’s fashion scene?
“Young people in Shanghai, they are brave in their style, they play with clothes fiercely, they wear big brands with replicas of the same brands, you have to have a certain sense of humour to pull this off.”
That is all for Day 2! We will be coming back with more tomorrow. Leave your comments below and use our #livingit to connect with us on social.