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Carven & Valentino: highlights of first day of menswear shows in Paris


le mag

Carven & Valentino: highlights of first day of menswear shows in Paris

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The start of the Paris menswear shows saw models walk the runway for Carven at the Beaux Arts Academy.

The set design featured a couple of billiard tables. Designer Guillaume Henry said that he had a group of “bad boys” in mind, charismatic miscreants who hang around in black denim jackets, collarless shirts and leather shoes with thick soles.

“I wanted this collection to underline the idea of a group of guys,” Henry explained.

“I wouldn’t call it a gang because it sounds too aggressive for me. It’s more like a group of friends. They can play like bad boys but they are not that aggressive. I have been inspired this season by mugshots, police pictures,” he added.

Henry showed fur caps that looked like astrakhan and suit jackets with the feel of cardigans, both structured and soft.

The colour palette was mostly subdued, with shades of black, navy and grey.

The designer threw in a few sassy womenswear looks, too – the women who are always attracted to the wrong type of guy.

Will Smith and PSG football player Marco Verratti were among the guests at the Valentino menswear show on Wednesday at the L’hotel Salmon De Rothschild.

The Paris show combined traditional tailoring with urban modernity. Valentino’s collection was made up of pieces that paired traditional fabrics and timeless patterns with contemporary designs.

Reinforcing the idea, the show took place in a deep rich wood hall offset by the intricate, colourful patterns adorning the runway.

Some of the outfits on display were cashmere t-shirts paired with finely tailored trousers, a two-piece camouflage suit, pyjama suits and coats resembling heavy robes – all worn with either combat boots or white trainers.

Friends for nearly a decade, Belgian designer Raf Simons and L.A. artist Sterling Ruby combined their talents, bringing to life a co-branded menswear collection they showed at Paris’s Place Vendôme on Wednesday night.

They created the entire collection in tandem, from the oversized rubbery moon boots in bright orange, to the strips of fabric and fluorescent stripes sewn onto roomy jackets.

Designs included images of planet Earth or sharks, the repeated words including “Fathers” or “Abus Lang,” a paint splatter effect in different colours and disembodied hands with long manicured nails clinging to briefcases.

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