05/07/13 12:34 CET
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Jean Paul Gaultier pounced back into top form with a feisty feline collection for Paris couture week, showing that despite a few off seasons, he still has several tricks up his sleeve.
The female panther was the inspiration of the show, which featured leopard print tights, amazing feather coats, black crepe dresses and even a pair of chaps inspired by a clown’s costume.
Meanwhile, Valentino’s autumn winter couture show was full of emotion and drama. Over the audience’s heads were animal heads and horns representing the Cabinets of Curiosities from Renaissance times that inspired this collection.
Designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli pulled off an eccentric and imaginative show with Oriental motifs and arabesque patterns fused with Scottish herringbone tweeds and Renaissance capes, alongside embroideries of lion’s heads, bees, beetles and dragonflies.
Elsewhere, Maison Martin Margiela called its show Artisanal and used materials such as latex and denim – a far cry from the usual haute couture fare of silk and organza.
The 19 outfits were organised into four different themes: ‘Ensemble du jour’; ‘Busts’; ‘Night’s bird’; and ‘Promo’s queen’.
But the most important features of this collection were the floral and printed masks worn by hooded models.
And Lebanese designer Elie Saab presented his show at the former stock market in Paris. Called ‘A Royal Affair’, it featured a series of opulent red carpet gowns in a palette of blood reds, blues and greens.
The highlight of the show was the bride’s dress – a silvery gown embroidered with smoked quartz, stones and crystals.