Portuguese designer Fatima Lopes banished the grey Paris weather with a collection that brought the colours and sounds of her native island of Madeira to the catwalk.
Her show, called Luxurious Paradise, opened Paris Fashion Week.
“This is a very typical (collection),” she said, “but especially there is a lot of me because really it’s the first time that I have as inspiration the place I was born, which is special, small and very beautiful island.”
Tropical and sensual, Lopes’ spring/summer 2013 outfits were her signature bold designs.
Models wore slinky halterneck dresses in clinging materials with revealing keyhole cut-outs and high side slits.
A special floral print recurred throughout the collection and reflected her love for Madeira’s anthurium flower.
There were asymmetric bikinis, with iridescent capes and cropped sleeves.
The tropical theme carried through to the models’ hair and make-up – green and yellow eyeliner and slicked-back hairstyles straight from the sea.
Dutch designer Steffie Christiaens showed her Doomsday-inspired collection in a vast car-park.
Just two years out of fashion school, the young designer has been flagged as a rising star.
Unusually, Christiaens never designs by drawing, instead she drapes every piece on a mannequin.
“I think that when you work directly on the body, it gives more like, an overview, because you find more direct lines of the body or you create different silhouettes than if it’s flat,” she explained.
The environmentally-conscious designer opened with a conceptual film about the melting ice-caps. Models wore clothes that dissolved and reformed – reflecting the uncertain future of the planet.
Double-faced fabrics and intricate panelling let bi-colour silhouettes dominate.
Halter-neck evening dresses fell off the models’ shoulders in washed silk and leather, with some garments featuring keyhole mesh panels.
The overarching theme of the collection was disintergration and decay – seen in the blurring of silhouettes – although a palette of optimistic pastels offset the sombre mood of the collection.