Paris’s Haute Couture shows continue with Alexandre Vauthier choosing the Natural History Museum’s Jardin des Plantes to show his new collection, for which he experimented with a wide range of new materials.
“With the manufacturers I developed lots of new materials: platinum leaves, guipure lace made with gold thread, silk with metal, so that it reflects the light. We worked with white, the reflection of whites, beige and light grey. And also gold, which is the house code,” says Vaulthier.
While Vauthier’s technical proficiency is always impressive, it is the sexiness factor that stands out: Pantsuits plunged to the navel, skirts ended at the top of the thigh and a cascade of gold chains seemed to be the only thing keeping a model’s breasts from view.
Vauthier worked 4 years for Thierry Mugler and then 8 years for Jean-Paul Gaultier before going solo in 2009 aged 37. Today he counts celebrities like Beyoncé or Rihanna amongst his clients.
In the shadow of the Eiffel tower Stephane Rolland unveiled a very graphic collection, using fluid and flowing materials for comfort, and featuring new techniques
“This season I have worked with a lot of jersey fabric, for the comfort that it brings and the adaptability that it brings to the collection, I have worked a lot on adaptability in this collection, a lot on the aerial aspect, there is a lot of muslin, gazar, flying forms, transparency also, a lot of it. And then, there is innovation in new techniques, by collaborating with artists as I have always done. This time Tzuri Gueta did embroidery in silicone, and we recreated furs with silicone, a little bit like aliens who would burst out of the body,” says Rolland.
Tzuri Gueta is a textile artist whith a degree in textile engineering at Shenkar College in Israel, He arrived in Paris in 1996, and today he has many fruitful collaborative projects with the Haute Couture industry including the fashion houses of Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier, Givenchy, Dior and Armani.
The centrepiece of Stephane Rolland’s show was a stunning bridal dress, modelled by
Chinese actress Fan Bing-Bing.