Paul Smith’s models strode out in fitted blazers, skinny trousers, narrow-cut, high-necked sweaters, and had mannish, boyfriend coats draped nonchalantly over their shoulders at his London fashion week show.
Colors were muted, with grays, mustard, jade and burgundy dominating with plenty of velvet and tweed, and the designer also played with contrasting fabrics, pairing a smoking jacket with brocade trousers, for example.
The main theme is a slim, androgynous silhouette for his autumn and winter collection.
Sir Paul, now very much a British and world fashion institution, stuck to his favorites.
“As you know we are looking at the winter collection for women and it’s not got a very strong theme, it’s just working around my strength… well what I think are my strengths, which is really lovely tailoring, beautiful coats, and beautiful suits,” he said.
Longstanding London favourite Turkish designer Bora Aksu also presented his latest collection, his 15th.
The models wore leaf-inspired headpieces to keep their hair in place, with many dresses featuring a white, gray and pink motif.
There were a few forays into sherbety orange and fuchsia, but most of the collection had a sober, wintry feel set off by fanciful patterned tights and
lace-up, high-heeled boots.
“The whole idea is like, you know how children don’t have that cliché of in winter we need to wear dark and in summer we need to wear light. So I wanted to sort of break that cliché and bring summer colors into winter in a sense,” said Aksu.
Many of the ensembles consisted of silk tops and shirts covered with layered coats. The dresses featured beautiful, ornate detailing.
The Aksu show drew a standing room-only
Brazilian designer Daniella Helayel, whose label is known as Issa, also scored big with London fashion week audiences.
“It is a Russian doll meets James Bond look because the woman that inspired us was Ursula Andress and James Bond, we had like this mood board with her that was fantastic,” she said.
A longtime favorite of Kate Middleton, (now the Duchess of Cambridge), Helayel made liberal use of furry caps and fur trim around the shoulders, the brown and grey nicely offsetting her dresses’ forest greens and splashes of red.
The prints were radiant, with oversize floral motifs, and red-and-blue swirls that looked like the models were wrapped in bubbling lava.